For nine years this was in a seasoned oloroso butt, before being transferred into a butt which had previously been used in a sherry bodega solera system. The nose suggested custard pastries and almond biscuits, new leather boots and a wood- panelled tapas bar (hams hanging from the ceiling).

The mouth impact was powerful:  dried fruits, macaroon bars, caramel and honey, with lingering notes of pipe tobacco, bombay mix, leather, cinnamon and clove. With water, the nose picked up pescaito frito with lemon, demerara sugar and dark chocolate with orange and spice. The palate now brought raisins soaked in brandy, marmalade, spiced plums and pencil ends.