The aroma recalled, for some, the cigar smoker of old watching black and white television while chomping on long stogies, and next to them a retro walnut wood ashtray. The taste neat was deep, dark and dominating, like a flaming torch, before flavours of singed smoked pigeon breast, chicken liver parfait on burnt toast and hickory-smoked almonds appeared.

Following reduction, we found burnt Cumberland sausages, smoked eel and dark chocolate, with liquorice and smoked salt on the nose. The taste was that of Spanish-style oxtail braised with chorizo, a sandwich with habanero sausage-smoked beef strips and, in the finish, a raspberry treacle tart.