The exuberant nose recalled all the fruit candies of the world – jelly babies, gummy bears, fruit gums etc., cassis, Pink Lady apples and cherry blossom. The palate, with a sparkly tingle of joy, brightened our lives with bubble gum, rhubarb, pineapple and Norwegian apple and grape soda, plus hints of garibaldi biscuits, ice cream and chocolate chip cookies.

The reduced nose had orange peel, juniper, banana bread, dried apricots and lawn mowers running amok in an orchard. The palate now had Danish pastries, vanilla, mellow calvados and juicy pomegranate – then a slightly chalky finish, with suspicions of cinnamon and liquorice.