We were surprised by the subtlety of this one. An initial nose with ethereal wafts of herbal smoke, then precise, sharp salinity and eventually sour cherries and balsamic vinegar. This evolved towards tarry rope, smoked sea salt and squid ink. Reduction brought more umami savoury vibes of black miso, soy sauce, cured game meats and pork scratchings flavour with five-spice.

The palate neat was initially all-on sour red fruits, umami paste, fermenting soybeans, natural tar extracts, burlap and smoked olive oil. With water it became more delicate showing notes of smoked rosewater, peated Gewürztraminer, dried seaweed, charred fennel, marmite and dark chocolate with sea salt.