Things opened with the rich, thick air of cured and smoked hams and cheeses, sliced madeira cake and nuts, some of them smoky. These were joined by apple peel, caramel and baked stone fruits. The palate was awash with fruity syrups, dates, custard tarts, coriander and beurre noisette, with a mentholic sorbet to finish.

Having introduced water, red apple leapt forward, joined by lemon zest and baked sultanas on the nose. The palate was now vinho verde, sticks of toffee, plum jam and mace. After 12 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this to a 1st fill ex-bodega Pedro Ximenez barrique for the remainder of its maturation.