A beautiful initial nose of beach sand, kelp, mineral salts, iodine drops, sandalwood and sea greens. The coastal buzz of rock pools, fresh mussels, brine mixed with olive oil, chopped chives and preserved lemons. With water we felt the fizzy kiss of oysters and champagne. Then aged lambic ales, whelks and scallops grilling over hot coals, sea urchin-mashed potato and fresh lime juice.

The mouth glistened with boiled lime sweets, barley sugar, smoked white fish, caraway liqueur, salted liquorice, Earl Grey tea, old rope and lanolin. Reduction gave us peat ash, fresh tuna steak, liquorice ice cream, pork scratchings, picked shellfish, boiler fumes and mercurochrome. Matured for six years in a bourbon hogshead before transfer to a refill Madeira hogshead.