The nose, though subtle, nevertheless suggested mainly masculine images – a died out bothy fire, or that apposite cliché of an old-time sailor on a rope-strewn deck, dressed in old woollens, sou’wester and oilskins; hands on a polished wheel. The palate delivered intense smoke, scorched wood, tongue-numbing spices (curry powder, cinnamon, ginger) and some toffee sweetness.

On the reduced nose, the ship had come to shore – beach bonfire barbecue cooking mackerel, rock-pools and perfumed sweets. The palate now found some sea salt, lavender and lemon – the raw masculine smoke much more appropriately balanced by satisfying sweetness – now actually quite easy-drinking.