A fresh, lively nose, with white pepper, sanded wood, tinned fruit cocktail, stewed rhubarb and vanilla custard slice – lemon shows up later (lemon balm, lemon meringue pie).  The palate is vivacious, zesty, juicy and penetrating – grapefruit, Rockets candies, dried pineapple and desiccated coconut; chili heat at the end.

Water softens the nose, which becomes lightly floral and somehow creamier – rose Turkish Delight, dandelion milk and candied angelica, with oak shavings and meadow grasses. On the palate, you can throw water at it and it retains its bittersweet fruitiness (peach liqueur, pear) and that white  pepper and clove spicy tingle in the tail.