The nose was unmistakable Islay – sea spray, peat reek, coal buckets and brine – barbecued pork with burnt crackling, leather saddles, tobacco and melting road tar. With water we found swimming pools, some herbal and mineral notes, barbecued fish, dry white wine and salty water flung on sauna coals. The unreduced palate had sweet notes (honey-roasted peanuts) talcum powder, pencil rubbers, barbecued prawns and a home fire hearth, from the chimney soot to the ash pan. The reduced taste had roasted cashews, charcoal, linoleum and a subtle floral hint – but mainly sweet and peaty. This 1846 distillery was modernised in 1973.