The Panel discovered a big ol’ bag of kippers, wood smoke, peat oils, grilled whelks, smoked mussels in brine, lemon juice, wood ash and fishing nets. Also some herbal touches and a few crushed twiglets. Water gave us wet and burning leaves with a fisherman’s oilskins, Arbroath smokies, salt and vinegar chips and a dollop of mercurochrome. In the background some foaming rock pools and a little star anise.

The palate revealed a peat-fired kiln, liberally poured mezcal, gentian eau de vie, tar liqueur, smoked tea then some heather, burnt toast and a BBQ turkey sandwich. Reduction brought out more mineralic notes such as wet pebbles, lime juice, coal tar soap, sea greens, smoked venison, smouldering heather and ash-rolled goat’s cheese.