The nose gave us toffee, caramel and brown sugar, tinned pears, cinnamon swirls, glazed apple cake and plum flan, with suggestions of prawn cocktail crisps. The palate was tasty and rewarding – Cadbury’s chocolate fudge, dry roasted nuts and amontillado sherry, with clove, chili and burnt wood on the finish.

The nose became more delicate with water – oiled wood, apple pie, peach melba and ginger snaps. The palate developed plum jam, Jaffa cakes, vanilla wafers and honeycomb; understated savoury and spicy notes tucked behind – subtle and easy-drinking. After 23 years in ex-bourbon wood we transferred this to a 1st fill red wine hogshead.