Like walking into a kiln – the atmosphere swirled with smoke devils – while we also found marshmallows, sherbet lemons, a first aid box and salt-encrusted ships' timbers. To taste, the smoke was nutty, lively and abundant, with fruit and juice-flavoured mini candy chews, dark chocolate, cherry chewing gum and brazil nuts. But holding it too long on the tongue might not be advised (unless you have a prosthetic tongue).

Water sweetened and tamed it – the nose found floral perfumes, brine, next-day barbecue gloves and lemon drizzle cake. The palate moved from smoke devils to tipsy angels – still some light industrial notes, but also dark chocolate and hazelnut confectionery, vanilla, lemon peel, juniper and walnut.