We were sweetly welcomed by freshly baked apple and sultana crumble, dusted with cinnamon and nutmeg and covered with butterscotch sauce. Then the heady notes of Tokaji dessert wine integrated with nut brittle and the marzipan of battenberg cake to produce a most irresistible concoction. A medicinal note entered from the side lines like pungent camphor smeared onto staves of new oak.

Water released a profusion of salmon-smoking, lobster-cracking, driftwood-gathering maritime antics, all with a great abundance of fresh seaweed. The texture was oily and viscous like melted butter in preparation for frying sweet shallots. A harmonious finish carried a flinty and mineralic edge with sweet smoke and sticky tar on seaside wood.