Fresh and airy on the nose, with hints of tomato leaf, unripe melon and fig, sea splashing against harbour walls, salted driftwood and purple popping candy. The neat palate is sparkly, and zesty – cinnamon and ginger dusted melon sprinkled with brown sugar; then oak, charcoal, rosemary and tobacco to finish.

The reduced nose has ceviche served by the seaside, mango, lemonade and lime wedge in a Mexican beer. The palate grows milder – barley sugars, toffee apples and Fruit Salad chews; then a finish of spicy chai in a wooden beaker, angostura bitters and Euthymol tooth powder; a bit of a chameleon.