The nose was a happy collision between savoury smoke and spicy sweetness – bacon frazzles, aniseed, clove, cardamom and spiced fruit and nuts. The palate seemed massive – intense smoke and flavours of tar, treacle, cough medicine and honey-glazed ham; also considerable sweetness, mineral notes and some herbal hints too – ‘absolutely amazing!’ We were led by the reduced nose to a barbeque – spiced pork belly, sweet and sour prawns and even barbecued bananas. The reduced palate displayed beautiful sweetness, reminiscent of liquorice allsorts and gummi bears, but still that dry, ashy smoke underpinned the whole delicious experience. A smoky highlander from Kennethmont.