Once described as ‘the model distillery of Europe’, this large operation in Edinburgh closed in 1988. The only known bottling by its owner was in 1986, for the Commonwealth Games. This example is exotic: quite prickly on the nose, with scents of vodka and apple juice, warm naan bread (with cumin and caraway seeds), roast garam masala, tinned pears and desiccated coconut.

To taste it is sweet and salty, and reminded some of us of lime pickle. The curry theme continued with water: sweet onion relish, mango chutney, coriander seeds against a mild curry background. The taste is now soft and herbal, after a sweet start, with a short finish.