After eight years in ex-bourbon wood, we moved this into a 1st fill Oloroso hogshead. The nose suggested potpourri in a mahogany bowl and eating butterscotch and orange travel candies, sitting on a sunny beach. The palate started with oak tannins, citrus peel and apple skins, but then settled into marmalade, apricot jam and teasing traces of sweet sherry and tobacco.

The reduced nose combined strawberry laces and roasted peach with an evocation of dusty bodegas in Jerez. The palate now had brown sugar and charred pineapple, lemon meringue pie and gooseberry tart, with the texture of fruit sweets wrapped in waxed paper.