Aromas of apple purée and coconut milk soon revealed a fresh oak backbone and vanilla pods in a sugar bowl. Subtle rancio and musky notes floated along while the sugar became more rich, dark and heady. The taste was very sweet with powerful vanilla and banana, moving to a chalky and slightly drying finish.

Water saw apple turnovers dusted with icing sugar as a curious coconut and peach smoothie was whizzed up in the background. Wonderful oakiness (“wrung out staves”), banana chips, Campinos, cloves and banana toffee brought this rollercoaster of sweetness home.