A kiss of sherry evokes the Andalusian sun – the nose has crème brûlée, apricot Danish, fig rolls, mandarins in syrup, ripe melon and ice wine. The deep, rich taste has muscovado, dark honey and lebkuchen (apricot jam, dark chocolate, cinnamon, ginger and clove) –flooding the mouth with pleasure.

It absolutely does not need water, but in the interests of research we sniffed hazelnuts, marmalade, toffee apples and dried marigolds. The palate now had honey oat crunch, blueberry muffin and clove rock – layers of harmony and a long-lasting echo. 16 years in ex-bourbon wood, then transferred into a 1st fill Oloroso hogshead.