Classic Islay nose – onshore winds drove across the moor, picking up lanolin, dunnage warehouses, swimming pools, hessian ropes, peat smoke, ash and embers on the way. Then we opened the kitchen and found battered haddock, roast lamb and marmalade on duck. The unreduced palate was invigorating, eye-watering, breath-catching – a tsunami of lime, lavender, ash, well-barbecued meats and charred fish skin. The reduced nose altered – Olbas oil, euthymol toothpaste, tobacco leaf, amaretto, clove and a dog shaking itself after swimming in the sea. The palate turned to sweet salty prawns, wood-sap and restrained smoke. Heavily peated whisky from the 1881 Rinns distillery.