The nose – we were enjoying Chinese sweet and sour pork by an Orkney harbour – dried seaweed, ferry boats, heather and vanilla ice-cream in the air. The palate started sweet but quickly became bold, salty and tongue-tingling – tarry ropes, tangy apple sauce, very dark chocolate and hints of smoke.

On the reduced nose we were still on the harbour but the catch was landed and the tide out – barnacle-encrusted boats, fish boxes and Sou’westers – also some lemon and salt. The reduced palate combined lavender, heather and honey with liquorice, roasted chestnuts and Arbroath Smokies (a delicious local smoked haddock speciality).