The nose offered candy floss, cinder toffee, peat smoke, rock-pools, barbecues and donuts, evoking Port Ellen’s occasional beach fairground. It also had lemon, ash, dark chocolate and bacon Frazzles. The neat taste was almost galactic in its vastness, with lots of smoke, intense spice, chocolate (violet creams, chocolate gingers, Crunchie) and flavours of roast pork (with crackling) and vegetable kebabs. The reduced nose combined maple-glazed ham (clove and pineapple) with wood-smoke by the sea-shore, tar, gym shoes and canvas. The palate now uncovered faint lavender, crispy seaweed, ash, black peppercorns, smoke, tar and something vaguely medicinal. From Islay’s biggest distillery.