The nose delivered savoury notes, evoking tapas bars (fino, amontillado, tortilla, old polished wood, etc.) but the dessert menu was even stronger (crème caramel, rum and raisin ice-cream, apple granny cake). More complex with water – sugared seaweed, Japanese sweet omelette, earthy hazelnut and plastic toys in the sun. The taste was essentially sweet – vanilla, amaretto, caramel, carrot cake, figs – but with a slight metallic, gamey, bittersweet edge of burnt cake and walnut. With water, its darker side (hoisin duck patrolling the farmyard in wellies) was happily dominated by the joyful sweetness of toffee, toasted marshmallows, Nutella, Dr Pepper syrup and panna cotta.