Despite cut grass, herbal notes, citrus, pineapple and watermelon, we could not describe the nose as clean – an almost grubby fascination kept drawing us back – we found toasted oak and pistachios, nutmeg, ghee, an engineer’s workbench, burnt eucalyptus and chow mein noodles. The palate was concentrated and intense (‘an espresso of a dram’) fizzy, mouth-watering and impressively textured – with hits of anise and fennel seeds, plus oily, nutty, peppery elements; sweetness appeared as liquorice allsorts, white chocolate and agave syrup (especially with water) but savoury undertones, even salty, seaside suggestions and medicinal intimations made it a slightly challenging but satisfying experience.