A dynamic nose, containing sharp fruits (pear, pineapple, sherbet lemons, tinned fruit cocktail), ferns by a rocky waterfall, smoked shellfish and a musket fired up a chimney. The palate had intense, youthful spirit and smoke; also pear popsicles, toffee apple, butterscotch, muscovado and bacon Frazzles, then charred logs, wasabi and pickled ginger to finish.

The reduced nose conjured up a romantic barbecue with a chimney sweep – lobster, scallops, sweet smoke, snuffed out vanilla candles and hints of Mosel wine. The reduced palate remained voluptuously viscous, bursting with sweet peat smoke, chocolate pralines and liquorice chews; young and feisty, but totally enjoyable.