We found various things on the nose – chalky sweets and dulce de leche; dried flowers and hay; slate, oily rags and salt and pepper chips – eventually wisps of light smoke. That smoke was stronger on the palate – etching the tongue with pan-fried red chilies, wood ash and camphor – all wrapped in honey and barley sweetness.

The reduced nose balanced burnt heather stems and wood fire embers with dark toffee, marble cake and marzipan. Now we tasted butterscotch, petits fours and brown sugar on porridge, some earthier notes (truffle, dried mushrooms, cured meats) and light smoke - char and tar - especially on the finish.