Some panellists went corybantic-crazy for this (not sure they’ve recovered yet!) – the nose bursts with brandy snaps, banoffee pie, juniper berries, cinnamon and liquorice – one panellist imagined playing cards in a mahogany-panelled speakeasy with a gangster’s moll (living dangerously!). The palate was dry as wood shavings, with burnt orange, black tea, cinnamon bark, cloves, dried figs, cherries, marzipan, dark chocolate, honey and well-torched crème brûlée.

The reduced nose developed all the polished leather of a rodeo and the Tiger Balm muscle rub required after one. The palate now found clove and orange pomanders, cherry brandy, peppermint and astringent wood – quite an experience!