The nose was deep and rich (like a millionaire’s pockets), with tarry ropes and wetsuits on a pier, a night-club bouncer’s leather trousers and sneakers, struck match, antiseptic, syrup of figs, Branston pickle, balsamic and embers from a seafood barbecue. The neat palate was salty, smoky and sweet – a big personality of a dram delivering sweet pickled onions, anchovies, burnt raisins, treacle, bonfire ash, sherry and biltong. The reduced nose found mussels, sea water and wet sand with a hint of new leather. The palate became softer and sweeter (but still no pussycat) – raisins and lemon peel in a fruit cake.