The oak has a make or break impact on grain whisky – and we found abundant wood on the nose – dunnage warehouses and a French polisher’s workshop – plus corn cobs, tobacco leaf, Manuka honey, candy floss, vanilla, chocolate-coated marshmallows, pineapple and rum truffles. It became more buttery with water (marmalade on toast, buttered crumpets) with spun sugar, shoe polish and charcoal embers. The palate held our interest – bourbon-like sweetness (butterscotch, chocolate, peanut brittle, caramel, honey-glazed ham) with slightly bitter hints of cocoa powder, tobacco and leather and a pleasant oaky dryness insinuating resin and wood-sap. From the biggest distillery in Scotland.