The nose is a captivating Orkney saga – herbal smoke (garden bonfires, heather moor-burn); followed by sea-shore hints of salty spray and langoustines on beach bonfire barbecues – lastly chocolate limes. The initial palate has a chewy, earthy, salty thread of peat smoke – followed by chocolate and butterscotch (Daim bars), Bounty bars and ice-cream – mouth-filling, lip-smacking and very satisfying indeed – a real armchair dram (though you might feel the need to get up and dance occasionally).

With water, the smoke takes a medicinal, shaman’s tepee, male bonding turn – with heather flowers and chocolate dancing sensually behind that almost transparent curtain of smoke.