Complex beyond its years, the panellists were delighted to find fruity ripe mango with spiced sugar syrup, quince jelly and tart black cherries integrating most wonderfully with liquorice cake, treacle tart with soft short crust pastry and creamy custard. In the background appeared an interesting woody backbone of a French polisher's toolbox, damp forest floor and sweet balsa wood. Water released dried herbs in a farmhouse kitchen with welly boots and wax jackets by the door, fennel and coriander seed, fresh sweet carrots and homemade ginger beer with dandelion and burdock. After 12 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead it was transferred to a virgin oak hogshead for the remainder of its maturation.