Nose - brandy snaps, café noir biscuits, dark toffee, liquorice, treacle, molasses and crispy mackerel skin grilled over peat. Palate - visceral sweet smoke, burnt twigs, raisins, dark chocolate and Lapsang Souchong tea - a mouth-filling, lip-smacking, cockle-warming, thigh-slapping dram.

The nose turns sweeter with water - maple syrup and brown sugar - but there's a coal-fire in a wood-panelled room or a bucket and spade on the beach by a tarry driftwood bonfire. Now the palate balances maple candies, treacle toffee and sugar-coated fennel seeds with pipe dottles, medicinal notes and tying leather thongs with your teeth - you can provide the back story!