The nose conjured up fishing village scenes – boat sheds, smoke houses, sea air, tarry ropes, puffer boats, lobster pots, seaweed and seafood barbecues; also lavender and carbolic. The palate was masculine and tongue-roasting (pleasantly so) with manly smoke, tarry driftwood, brine, treacle, vanilla, honey-roasted pork, smoky bacon and chili. The reduced nose discovered swimming pools, coal fires, fish boxes on a bonfire, new car tires and oysters. Even in reduction, the palate was still big, but very enjoyable – mouth-tingling spices, salt and pepper, citric smoke, grapefruit on prawn cocktail and hints of leather in the finish. We thought it very ‘sound’.