The nose wafts warm, welcoming vanilla aromas – like a 1950s ice cream parlour, with strawberry milk shake, fudge and chocolate profiteroles – someone is chewing Dentyne (subtle cinnamon) and the bar stools are covered in leather. The palate has sweetness, depth and good viscosity – toffee, brown sugar and white chocolate, with gentle chili and old-fashioned gobstopper mouth-etching spice.

The reduced nose finds biscuit tins and caramel apple granny cake, and then light liquorice and anise make an entrance. The palate has become wonderfully sweet and accessible as that early vanilla returns to vanquish any chili; sweet cinnamon, clove and dry oak leave haunting tingles.