As one we cried: “burnt buttery crumpet spread with chunky Dundee marmalade” – later it became “spread with dark comb honey” – and some noted strawberry fudge and McCowans Highland Toffee as well. The taste at natural strength was sweet and saccharine-bitter, with warm spiced rum, and some sherry in the aftertaste. Water inevitably raised sulphur to start – boiled eggs and struck matches – but then creamy treacle toffee, dried cranberries and flowering currant bushes. The texture is luscious; the taste of liquid caramel, with pleasant bitterness: salted caramels ‘robed’ in dark chocolate. A Top Class Speyside, not a new town…